Contact!

Okay, so after about a week of brooding, Melissa and I finally had to make contact with our liaison. I think it was because we ran out of cooking gas. Anyhoo, Rock told us that Mr. Li told her what he said to us the day after he said it. She said that she was shocked and apologized for it. Well, we didn't want to seem indignant or whatever, and we apologized for associating our vegetarianism with Rong Jia Wan. So, we got into an apologize-off, and I think that we won. You see, she said that Mr. Li was also sorry, but Mr. Li didn't actually say sorry (or anything, so far) to us. So it was Melissa and me apologizing to Rock and vice versa. After a few minutes of trying to get the apologetic upper-hand, we were glad that the weirdness had gone away, for the most part.

Have not run into Mr. Li yet, but I don't expect too much when we do. Maybe a cricket will chirp, maybe more. Who knows...

Cullen

Oh No You Di'int!

Cullen: Okay, so we were at our town's open market the other weekend in search of dumpling wrappers (this is where the best ones are located). Now, every single time we enter this place (that stinks with the moist stench of death), we have no choice but to witness animal slaughter. And it's not just any animal that's being abused, imprisoned and slaughtered before our eyes. It's countless stray dogs. Usually when we go, we see skinned and gutted dogs hanging from hooks through their mouths with their fur and guts splattered on the concrete below. Also, we are witness to these poor dogs being imprisoned in filthy cages. However, when we went on this specific occasion, it was like it was the day before some sort of Chinese Thanksgiving that serves dog as the main dish.

Melissa: We'll spare you the gory details, simply because we want you to continue to come back and visit our blog without losing sleep at night or waking up screaming if you do get any sleep, but I'll just tell you that it was like nothing I have ever seen in my life, in person or PETA video. It was a week ago or so and the images and sickening cries are still fresh in my mind. Mind you, not a single person at the market winced, let alone seemed to notice, aside from us. This is simply a cultural divergence that we will of course respect and perhaps accept in due time. Yet it rekindled in us an urge to re-explore our inner vegetarians, as we agreed that simply avoiding dog's meat would only quell our conscience as far as we could see, but not what we know to be true: that whatever abuse we were seeing here against dogs was happening around the world, including in our own country, to cows, pigs, chickens, turkeys, and any other animal that humankind sees fit to eat. As you may know, and as Cullen will never be able to forget as I remind him constantly, I was a vegetarian for five years starting in high school and throughout the entirety of college. When I traveled to Ecuador and lived in Armenia, cultural norms and call for sensitivity overwhelmed my instincts to avoid meat, and so I broke my vegetarianism to avoid offending my hosts. Now seemed like the perfect opportunity to take it up once again, given the inspiring scene at the market.

Cullen: And take it up we did, but before doing so, Melissa told our liaison about what we saw and that it bothered her. I remember Melissa getting off the phone with her and worrying that she took her the wrong way. Melissa told me that she kept apologizing for her people, which was not what Melissa was getting after. Her whole point was not that the mistreatment and slaughter was being conducted by Chinese people, but that it was being conducted at all. In any case, we started eating vegetarian, which really isn't difficult for us to do, as we almost always cook for ourselves. However, a couple of days ago, our school told us that we needed to give a class to about two hundred Junior students from all over the county and judge their oral English competition. This entailed a dinner at a restaurant with some of the school's teachers and a few of the organizers.

We just got back from the dinner and the classes. The dinner had a good number of vegetarian dishes, which was arranged by our liaison and our head teacher. We were surprised by this and are grateful for their accommodating menu. The dinner went fairly smoothly, although they did expect me to pack away beers like a fridge right before my class (about magic, of all things...) to the young Junior students. The oldest teacher was also at the table, and he kept egging me on to eat some of the meat dishes. I think that by not eating meat, it may have been seen as a disrespect towards the purveyors of our meal, as meat dishes tend to be the most expensive. I can also see that vegetarianism is seen as a weakness to some Chinese people, as they took satisfaction in watching me eat a little bit of bacon that they placed in my bowl. So, eating vegetarian at a Chinese restaurant tends to be awkward when eating with Chinese people.

Melissa: After dinner, we gave our "lectures" to about 200 junior students from around the county in one of our school's lecture halls. Cullen, as he mentioned, spoke about magic, and I gave a presentation on ecosystems. One of the English teachers in our school, Mr. Li, followed by thanking us for speaking and illuminated virtues of each lesson: first, he described what he would do with the magic hat Cullen spoke of in his lesson. Then, he added to my lesson that it is our responsibility to protect the environment. Both were welcome and constructive additions to our lectures, I thought to myself at that point. Then, Mr. Li proceeded to discuss our recent conversion to vegetarianism, which went a little something like this:

Cullen and Melissa have decided to become vegetarians after seeing the meat market in our own Rong Jia Wan. They found the treatment of animals in the market to be cruel. Yet Americans are killing Iraqi people in the Iraq war. Americans are in Iraq, fighting and killing Iraqi people. I don't understand why Cullen and Melissa would be vegetarians.
I don't believe that this statement warrants commentary on my part, especially because I wouldn't know where to begin in describing how offensive, uncalled for, and inappropriate those audacious remarks were, not only within the context of this forum, but at all, considering the fact that Mr. Li never broached the subject with us before coming to his own conclusions on the matter. I will say that for as intoxicated as Mr. Li claimed to be, he spoke with astonishing clarity, eloquence, and extent on the topic of our dubious moral code.

Cullen: Melissa really nailed that quote. As he said it, my face lit up with the heat of embarrassment, and I could not bring myself to take my eyes away from the floor. That thought belonged in the heat of argument instead of in our introductions to two hundred young Chinese students. Not only did he spread a great deal of misinformation about us, but he insulted us in front of everybody. After fuming about this for a few hours, my thoughts keep coming back to the way our liaison responded to Melissa the first time she told her about the mistreated dogs. She reacted as if we condemned China; as if she were expected to apologize for the traditional customs of her great and many countrymen.

Melissa: Following Mr. Li's lovely speech, Cullen fielded questions during a Q & A session, and Mr. Li attempted to make small talk with me. Being the type A personality that I am, I found it impossible to smile and nod and ignore the obvious. I asked him if he knew that I was a vegetarian in the United States as well, to which of course he responded that he didn't. Some of Cullen's type B personality found it's way into my subconsciousness and told me not to take it any further than that, although the urge to fully confront him has not been satiated. Stay tuned for further developments, as I contemplate getting all up in his grill.

Hmmm... Western Food, You Say?

One of our last stops in Hong Kong was dinner at an Italian restaurant, pictured above. In addition to pasta, we had gnocchi, garlic bread, bruschetta, red & white wine, and a trio of cheeses for dessert. That's right folks, we had cheese for dessert. Are we crazy? Maybe, but that's not why we ate cheese for dessert. For us, cheese is practically nonexistent and is only really available in Changsha (more than a two hour bus ride away). So, you could say that cheese is quite the luxury to us, hence all of the nom nom nomming on the cheese. Okay, I'll stop talking about cheese before you all vom on your nice computers.

Anyhoot, the Western food in general really inspired us to cook outside of the Chinese food box. On a trip to Yueyang, we found some Barilla pasta at Wal-Mart and decided to grab some. When we got back to Rong Jia Wan, we found some small tomatoes at a local fruit stand, and we picked up a few kilos of them. Apparently, people just snack on them like grapes, so we got a lot of stares from the folks who saw us with this large bag of 'snacking tomatoes'. Bunch of weirdos...

In all, the only ingredients we could get from our simple, little (frigging, crappy) town were tomatoes, garlic, onions and olive oil (which was way expensive). In addition to the pasta, the basil, balsamic and parmesan cheese had to be bought elsewhere.

We got back to the apartment and got straight to work on our Italian feast. In the end, we made tomato sauce, bruschetta and pasta, and all was right with the world. Until we opened the 'champagne'. This strange Chinese brew is for some reason pink, without effervescence and tastes like watermelon Kool-Aid mixed with rubbing alcohol. The taste... it's hard to forget.

On a lighter note, we also recently picked up a toaster oven in Changsha, which allows us to bake chocolate chip cookies! Of course, we also have to pick up brown sugar and vanilla outside of Rong Jia Wan, but the cookies are droooooool... I've gained fifteen pounds!

Cullen

Look to the Left!

Hi all,

Sorry about not posting in a long time...

HOWEVER, I thought I would point out the new link to the left. I'm trying to upload all of our photos to Picasa, which Blogger can link to. So, there is now a link to our online albums with lots of pictures. It's under "Our Pictures". I'll load more so it's not just the vacations.

Speaking of vacations, I've been obsessing over where to go for Spring Festival, which is a month-long holiday that starts sometime in January and ends sometime in February. At this point, we want to divide our time between Laos and Southern Thai Islands. We already had to scratch Angkor Wat, in Cambodia, because it would be too expensive to travel there (even though I already bought the Lonely Planet guide... drat!). We're trying to keep the transportation costs to a minimum, as plane tickets are surprisingly expensive.

Until next blue moon...

Cullen